Nov 03, 2017 The 'OFFICIAL' 2015 Denon 'S-series' / 'X-series' AVR Owner's thread. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP.

Control4 Driver Wizard Registration

2015 Denon AVR models --->S510BT/S710W/S910W/X1200W/X2200W/X3200W/X4200W/X6200W D&M USA should be making an official announcement mid June regarding the new 2015 USA Denon lower level AVR models [S510BT/S710W/S910W/X1200W/X2200W] so it's time to start the official 2015 thread. The announcement for the higher models X3200W and X4200W will be in late July with an announcement on the X6200W likely to be made in August. The 2014 'flagship' X7200W remains the flagship model for 2015 (although as of May 2015 is now being released with the HDCP 2.2 upgrade from the factory as the X7200WA) and has its own thread (actually 2 of them, (1), and (2) Last year we split up the threads into the Atmos and non-Atmos models so the lower level model thread wouldn't get inundated with Atmos questions. However, because Atmos will be featured on all 2015 models (except the S510BT), we're going to only have a single thread as the setup and troubleshooting questions asked generally have the same answer regardless of the model. What's new or to be added via firmware update for the 2015 models? All Models - HDMI 2.0a(HDR10) hardware and firmware is installed on all models.

S510BT - HDMI 2.0a(HDR10)/HDCP 2.2 on '3' HDMI inputs, able to pass through 4k/60Hz/4:4:4 color sub-sampling - Bluetooth Remote app S710W/S910W/X1200W/X2200W/X3200W/X4200W/X6200W - HDMI 2.0a(HDR10)/HDCP 2.2 on 'all' HDMI inputs, able to pass through 4k/60Hz/4:4:4 color sub-sampling (see post 7 for models with upscaling feature) - Advanced Quad-core 32-bit DSP processor (except the X4200W and X6200W which will retain the 4x 24 bit DSPs used in the X4100W and X5200W which results in the higher processing power required for XT32 + Atmos). - Atmos 5.2.2 capable (additionally, although not new and being continued from the X4100W/X5200W: X4200W able to expand to 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 with 2CH amp; X6200W is 5.2.4/7.2.2 out of box and able to expand to 7.2.4 or 9.2.2 with 2CH amp -->refer to postin this thread for more information on how to connect a 2CH amp) - Dolby Surround upmixer (DSU) to simulate 5.1/7.1 audio from a 2.0/5.1 source (to include audio to the height speakers when not playing an Atmos BD) which has replaced Dolby Digital ProLogic, DD PLIIz, and DD PLIIx (continued from X4100W -->X4200W and X5200W -->X6200W). - Note: The DSU can no longer be used on DTS HD audio (as is the case on the 2014 models) until a future firmware update is installed to allow cross format upmixing. Until the DTS:X update is installed, to simulate DTS HD audio to 'height' speakers you must set the Blu Ray player to PCM (vice bitstream).

Geometry And Discrete Mathematics 12. Setup - set the distance from the Dolby enabled speaker (FD, SD, RD) to the ceiling - DTS:X + DTS Neural:X (via firmware update Feb 2016 [X6200W/X4200W] and late summer 2016 [X3200W/X2200W/X1300W/S910W/S710W] - see post 8 for additional information). Batpig's Take: Frequently Asked Questions, Buying Advice and Important Stuff To Know So what's new in the 2015 models?? In most ways, the 2015 model lineup is a light 'refresh' or evolution of their 2014 predecessors, with relatively few changes overall. All of the basics and new features from last year -- like WiFi, Bluetooth, Spotify Connect, expanded 'Option' menu for on-the-fly adjustments, ECO mode, etc. -- carry forward to the current lineup. Dimensions, specifications, remote controls, GUI etc. Are virtually identical.

For 99% of buyers, the big difference boils down to TWO important changes: 1. HDCP 2.2 compliance - while last year's models technically supported 4K passthrough with full bandwidth HDMI 2.0, they did NOT have HDCP 2.2 compliance (the chipsets weren't available with both at this time last year). This made their 'future proof-ness' dubious for anyone who anticipated a near term upgrade to 4K/UHD content.

The new models are now as 'future proof' as they can be in this respect, so folks can upgrade without concern about 4K/UHD support when these new standard begin to become mainstream. Comprehensive support of 'Immersive Audio' - not only will DTS:X decoding be added to the party (in a future firmware update) along with Dolby Atmos, but D+M has made these new immersive audio codecs standard on ALL models (leaving aside the extremely entry level red-headed stepchild, the S510BT). Everything up to the X3200W is still a 7.1 model, so Atmos/DTS:X will be limited to a 5.1.2 setup (5.1 base layer plus 2 overhead speakers). As with their predecessors, the X4200W will be a 7.1 model that can expand to 9 channels with at least 2 channels of external amplification, and the X6200W will be 9ch built in with 11ch expansion. Any other changes are basically small potatoes. So should I get one of the 2015 models or nab a 2014 model at closeout pricing? In short, it depends on how important those two BIG changes above are to you.

The decision is fairly simple, just ask yourself two questions: (1) do you foresee yourself upgrading to 4K/UHD in the near future? And (2) do you foresee yourself adding additional speakers for immersive audio support in the near future? If the answer to both questions is NO, then you are safe to buy an older model. So if you just got a new 1080p display, have no plans to buy anything 4K for a while, and can only accommodate a 'standard' 5.1 or 7.1 layout, then there isn't much reason to pay the premium for a 2015 model.

Don't worry about changing your mind in a few years -- processor technology is moving so rapidly these days that it's rarely a good idea to spend extra for features you won't actually use, just in case you MIGHT use them in 2 or 3 years. By that point, there will be some new must-have gizmos that you want, so it will be better to make a new, informed buying decision at that time. I want the full 11 channel enchilada, should I spend the extra on the X7200WA vs. The newer X6200W? In terms of core featureset, these two models are virtually identical. They are both built in Japan, have 9 channels of internal amplification with 13.2 speaker connections and the ability to run a complete 11 channel Atmos/DTS:X configuration (or a 10.1 Auro3D config). If you step up to the X7200WA, you are basically paying a premium for slightly improved input/output/amp assign flexibility, and slightly better build and component circuitry.

2015 Denon AVR FAQ, Setup, and Troubleshooting Guide - Note that although this information is geared towards the 2015 Denon models, in many cases (esp. Troubleshooting) it applies to older Denon and Marantz models as well. Known Issues: See 'post ' of this thread. If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey mic with your new AVR. The mic is located inside a small white box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself so check all around the styrofoam. • 2015 (S710W/S910W and all 'X' series): These models ship with the Audyssey ACM1HB mic which is interchangeable with the Audyssey DM-A409 (2008-2011 Denon models) and Audyssey ACM1H (Onkyo/Marantz) mics.

If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have been calibrated to work with the Denon AVRs. Contact Denon for a replacement or you can usually find one on eBay for about $25 (although don't purchase one from outside the USA as they may be knockoffs).: The Setup Wizard and Speakers - Audyssey Setup can be run at any time. Just because you only have the front main (FL/C/FR) speakers or even just a set of 2.0 stereo setup is no reason not to run Audyssey Setup. If you add more speakers, simply run it again. You'll also want to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room.

Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ) or 8 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions using the included 'rocketship' cardboard mic stand or a or + ) within no more than a 2'-3' radius around the mic position (ie. Main listening position (MLP) or roughly ear height of the center of 'your' head) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters. One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey, so take advantage of its capability by providing it with as much data as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 -30 minutes (depending on whether you have a 5 speaker setup or 11/13 speaker setup), although ensure it is completely quiet in the room (ie. No pets or kids running around, no A/C noises, no PJ noise).

Also, the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night (especially if living in an apartment). The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a closet or a longer distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25' extension cable like one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends. Prior to running Audyssey Setup, you'll ideally want to have your front main speakers toed in towards the main listening position, the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main listening position (ear height) and if using front height speakers, aimed down towards the main listening position. It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running Audyssey Setup as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written over each time Audyssey Setup is run. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual.

Also note that some speakers are intentionally wired 'out of phase' by the mfr so if you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly (i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker. Initially just run 3 mic positions with the sub volume/gain knob set to 10 o'clock and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to. If it's -12db (ie.

This means the sub is too loud and the Denon has reached the maximum limit of -12db in attempting to lower it to the 75db calibration volume), you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub (eg. To 9 o'clock) and run Audyssey Setup again for 3 mic positions.

As long as it's HDMI converter or if you have a Wii you can use the. All models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over an HDMI connection to your TV. Although much of the information can be read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed so you are much better served reviewing the GUI setup on the TV. To display the GUI, simply press the appropriate menu button on the remote (ie. INFO, OPTION, or SETUP). If you only use a projector with no HDTV, you may want to consider purchasing a small 12' HDMI display for setup use only.

Note: The GUI is displayed in 480i resolution so if you have an older TV that cannot display 480i over HDMI, try playing a video source and displaying the GUI over the non-480i video source. The GUI display defaults to 30sec for the NET/USB, TUNER, and iPOD menus. This setting can be changed to 10sec, OFF, or always ON. When using the Video Select feature, eg. To watch cable TV with the TUNER as the audio source, you may have to set the TUNER GUI display to OFF.

One piece of information that is not displayed on the front panel display is the AVR's IP address; however, one owner (w/o an HDMI TV) was able to get the IP Address by using the iPhone remote app.: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI-->Component video conversion by any current AVR on the market. Either you must use the 2015 (S910W, X2200W and higher), which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an external 3rd party device that can do the conversion.: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was really loud at say 1/4 of the maximum master volume scale, modern AVRs use a logarithmic scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3 of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales, the default being 'absolute' (0-98) and 'relative' ( -79.5db to +18db).

If you have run Audyssey Setup, then average volume for most folks with 8O speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -40db to -30db (41-51 absolute) for TV listening and -30db to -10db (51-71 absolute) for movie/music listening. Each model has a 'Volume Limit' setting that defaults to OFF although can be set to 60(-20db), 70 (-10db), or 80 (0db). Setting this to 70 (-10db) is a good idea to ensure that others in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. Also, to ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's a good idea to not raise the volume above 80(0db) (little additional volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required). Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote, it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume. This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.: See post 5 of this thread.: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from the TV display when in the MUTE mode.

To prevent the relays from clicking when pressing MUTE, change the “Mute Level” setting from “FULL” to “-40db.: The only way to turn the AVR completely OFF is to unplug it, otherwise it is either ON or in Standby. Each model will use anywhere from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference volume (0db) using 8ohm speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+). In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF, 0.5W with HDMI Control ON, and about 2.7W with IP Control set to ON.: For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6 ohm ratings (ie. Gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why you will find them advertised (eg.

Best Buy) at higher power ratings than listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the 8 ohm rating. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these models is moot as going from the 75W (S710W) to the 125W (X4200W) will result in less than a 3db increase in volume. 3db being the lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people.

This is the reason that if you truly want additional volume capability, you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+ (although this can only be done with the 2015 (X3200W/X4200W/X6200W) models as they are the only models with main zone pre-outs to connect to an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient (eg. From 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).: When either 'HDMI Control' or 'HDMI Pass Through' are set to ON or 'IP Control” is set to ALWAYS ON, the power indicator light above the power button on the AVR's front panel will change to solid 'red' when placed in Standby mode.: If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power indicator light flashes red, it generally means the following based on the frequency of flashes: - Every 1/2 sec = speaker wire from one post touching another post (most common); driving 4O speakers too loud (ie. >-10db); or amp failure - Every 2 sec = temperature of the AVR is too hot (provide more ventilation) The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker wire strands is to use on those models that accept banana plugs (ie. Visually check the speaker connections at both the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case.

If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4 ohm speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source. If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker.

If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort. If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit in for repair as it could be amp failure.: The Denon 2015 stock remotes cannot operate other 3rd party devices (except X4200W/X6200W).

If you want to boost your Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony (or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not only most every function on the Denon stock remote but also to control your other devices as well. Simply download the remote codes for your particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base. Numerous Harmony models from $50 on up are available.: All settings in the AVR to include the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In a few instances, it has been reported by a few forum members that if the power is interrupted (eg. Power outage) while the AVR is powered ON, the settings 'may' return to their factory default settings.: When you have small kids in the house, it may be a good idea to consider setting the 'Setup Lock' feature to ON.

This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around, check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if you suddenly start having connection issues.: Denon no longer provides a hard copy Owner's manual, but rather a CD with a.pdf file of the Owner's manual. This same.pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website.

• 2015 models (S510BT, S710W, X1200W): These models can only pass through up to 4K/60fps video. • 2015 models (S910W, X2200W): These models can pass through up to 4K/60fps video and upscale up to 4K/30fps video. • 2015 models (X3200W, X4200W/X6200W): These models can pass through and upscale up to 4K/60fps video. Although the X4200W and X6200W both feature 11 sets of speaker posts, they can only provide 7CH (X4200W) / 9CH (X6200W) channels of on board audio at a time. The extra speaker posts are merely provided for convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations. These models can expand from 7CH to 9CH (X4200W) / 9CH to 11CH (X6200W) audio in the main zone by using an external 2CH amp.

Using this mode (known as 'passive bi-amping') generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio quality nor extra power as you're simply sending the same full range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker (which they would still get with a single connection) from the same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8ohm speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms), the only USA models that will allow for an external amp connection are the X3200W/X4200W/X6200W all of which have at least 7.2 main zone pre-outs. This is the feature that will pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.) back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC feature to work, it must be offered on both the TV and the AVR.

Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 or higher DOES NOT mean they offer the ARC feature. Note the S510BT does NOT offer ARC and therefore ARC will not work when connected to a TV with ARC. In order to use the TV's ARC feature you must set the TV's 'HDMI-CEC' setting (LG - SimpLink; Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync; Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well as setting the AVR's 'HDMI Control' setting to ON as the factory default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater). Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 - Samsung, Panasonic).

Once these settings are made, turn all devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again. TV first and then the AVR (although if that order doesn't work, try AVR first and then TV). Note that a side effect when using the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always shift to the 'TV Audio' source input when first turned ON rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF).

First introduced on the 2014 models, there is a new 'TV Audio Switching' setting which defaults to ON, but can be set to OFF in order to prevent the AVR from automatically switching to the 'TV Audio' source. Also new on the 2015 models is an ARC setting which defaults to OFF but should be set to ON when in use.

If you are unable to get the ARC to work, try replacing the HDMI cable from the AVR -->TV with a newer cable as doing so will often resolve the issue. Note also that with some TVs (eg. Samsung) the AVR will also revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. Cable/sat box) without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF. If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature (set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR. The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1) that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality.

If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV (eg. Due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when using the ARC connection (as some down mix to stereo only). If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out. All 2015 models now include built-in Bluetooth capability so a 3rd party adapter is not required. The 'X' series models include such features as remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters), RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. Home automation systems like Crestron), maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only), and Audyssey Pro installer ready (X4200W/X6200W only) - using an via a registered Pro Installer or the kit can be purchased by consumers for $700 ($550 kit/mic + $150 license/AVR). Refer to the for more information).

The 'X' seriees models also offer a 3 year warranty (vice 2 years for the S series models). This feature only works with devices connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an 'either/or' setting in that the audio can be set to pass to the 'AVR' or the 'TV', but not both at the same time.

This feature allows you to pass HDMI connected sources only through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV. On the 2015 models, HDMI Control does not need to be set to ON as there is an 'HDMI Pass Through' setting which defaults to ON with the 'Pass Through Source' defaulting to CBL/SAT so connect an HDMI source to the CBL/SAT input should pas through without making any further changes.

If you decide to change the Standby source to either LAST (source used) or another HDMI source, once making these change, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes, then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR. If this feature is not working for you, try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF. The 2015 (S910W and X models) come with the feature to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file (includes Audyssey settings) to a PC using the on board Web Control feature via the AVR's OSD. Note: Although this feature is not offered on the S710W; both the Web Control and the SAVE/LOAD features can still be accessed using the procedure noted below. If you are having difficulty SAVE(ing) a file, make sure to stop any network playback by first playing something on the network and then either pressing the Stop Playback (black square) or the ENTER button on the remote for a few seconds. You may also need to set 'Network Standby' to OFF (contrary to what the Owner's manual indicates).

The config.dat file should be about 348kb for all models except the X4200W/X6200W (952kb); however, it's a good idea to confirm the AVR is actually saving data in the file as the file size will be 348kb or 952kdb whether it's all zeroes or filled with zeroes and some data. If it is all zeroes, it will not LOAD successfully. Use a Windows hex viewer (eg. ) or Mac hex viewer (eg.

) to view the file and confirm whether it is all zeroes or not. If you do get a file with all zeroes or if a file with data won't load properly, then set Network Standby to OFF/Off in Standby, cycle the AVR OFF/ON and then try a SAVE again which should result in a config.dat file with non-zero data. It's also a good idea to SAVE the settings prior to a firmware update even though firmware updates generally don't change the system settings.

If you are having difficulty using IE, try using Firefox or Chrome (see ). If still no joy when trying to LOAD the config.dat file, try setting IP Control to 'Off in Standby', cycle the AVR to OFF, then ON again and try the LOAD. Xpfildrvr1224 320 Zipcode. If yet still no joy, try resetting the microprocessor and then do the LOAD again.

How to gain access to the Web Control and SAVE/LOAD features using the E300/E400/S700W/S710W Enter the AVR's IP address (eg. 192.168.XXX.XX) in the web browser of a laptop. If the Web Control menu does not display, enter the following additional information after the IP address. Using the previous example IP address. Web Control: 192.168.XXX.XX/MainZone/index.html (note that although the E400 does have the Web Control feature, the AVR's OSD does not provide access to the SAVE/LOAD feature without using the URL below) SAVE/LOAD: 192.168.XXX.XX/Setup_Index.asp or 192.168.XXX.XX/SETUP/OTHERS/f_others.asp If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the to stream audio to these devices and play it through your surround setup. There are also several other devices that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express, as well as converting the audio to a FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER.

Read article for more details. You have a couple of different options here.

One option is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR.

Another option is with any video source (to include HDMI) can be selected while listening to USB, Tuner, or network sources using the 'OPTION - Video Select' setting. On the models with a CD analog audio input (ie. S910W, X2200W, X3200W, X4200W, X6200W) you can connect an external source to the CD analog or optical input (as long as there is no video assigned to CD) and listen to it while watching a separate HDMI video source. The X4200W and X6200W also add the Phono input which can be used with 'Video Select' as well. When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either 'bitstream' or 'PCM/Direct'.

By setting it to 'PCM/Direct' the BDP will decode (or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its original uncompressed format (ie. Multi-channel PCM) to the AVR which will then display 'MULT CH IN' on the front panel, or you can 'bitstream' the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio quality will be the same, although the bitstreamed audio will likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just 'MULT CH IN'.

When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the 'Secondary audio' or 'Audio Mix' setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF. Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless, it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup. Note: When playing an Atmos BD, you must have the BDP set to 'bitstream.'

There is no difference between a 'High Speed' HDMI 1.3 cable and a 'High Speed' HDMI 1.4 cable. Cables are either “High Speed” (1080p) or “Standard speed” (720p/1080i). If it is an HDMI 1.3 cable and can pass 1080p video, you don't need to buy new cables because you upgraded to a new HDMI 2.0 AVR. For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors and where good quality 'High Speed' 6' HDMI cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy.

There's also no reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/Ethernet as none of the current models can take advantage of the Ethernet feature in this cable. The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped to a repair facility for firmware updates or repair. If you have an older generation AVR that lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA), then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps) on a regular DVD. You will likely be hard pressed to discern any audio difference between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI. Although the USA/CA and Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, there are some noted differences to include: (1) the Europe/Asia Pacific X3000 features main zone 7.2 pre-outs whereas the USA/CA X3000 does not, (2) The USA/CA X1000 features Zone 2 pre-outs whereas the Europe/Asia Pacific X1000 does not, and (3) none of the 'E' or 'S' series are offered in Europe/Asia Pacific, rather they are replaced by the 2013 X500 instead.

Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model number that identifies the region of the AVR (eg. X2100W E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada, E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia. When purchasing an other than new in box unit (ie. Demo/used/refurb), you'll want to reset the microprocessor (see post 5 of this thread) before starting the setup process which will ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults. The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the E300/S500W and higher networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer ( will not work with iPhone 3G), or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network.

This feature can also be replicated on non-networking model by using an Apple TV (audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR. Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in 'audio only' mode (ie.

If you want to pass video, you'll to need to add the Apple TV (ATV). A 'wired' connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering (eg. AVR front panel display reads “Buffering 60%). If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay, although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad, etc. Will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts. Also, if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for a few minutes and then power on again.

Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume so make sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. Before starting to stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure NETWORK CONTROL is set to ALWAYS ON (default setting), and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7(f) below. (3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the along with the doubleTwist add on. (4) When selecting Airplay to play to Zone 2, the main zone will initially be hijacked and play the same Airplay source selected for Zone 2, although once playing in Zone 2, you can reselect the source that was playing in the main zone. Note that although with the older 2012 (XX13) models you cannot turn the main zone off while Airplay is playing to Zone 2; this is no longer the case with the 2013 and newer models. All of the 2015 models (except the S510BT) feature a 'wireless' capability.

Note that when doing a firmware update, a 'wired' connection is recommended as it is generally more reliable. A couple of alternative connections are: (1) that plug into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which effectively turns your house wiring into a 'wired' network, or (2) which use your existing coax cable used for your TV. If you don't plan on using the network capability for other than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive and available from forum sponsor You can also purchase 1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however, note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or roughly 300'. If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer, better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally, if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems, try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not 'hidden', nor should it have a blank (' ') in its’ name. If you are using a XFinity cable/modem, try setting it to 'bridge' mode.

See post of this thread. See post of this thread. When finished using the NET/USB input source, it's important to back all the way out of the menus otherwise the connection will remain open.

The Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app that can be downloaded from the iTunes website and used by an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere in the house (where wireless internet is available). For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try the iPhone GUI Design application,.

The Denon REMOTE app for Android phones is also FREE and can be downloaded. Android phone users can also download free as well which works on both Denon and Marantz AVRs. Note that a new and improved iOS/Android remote app is scheduled to be delivered at a later date. A couple of other similar apps (fee required), and can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08. Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using the. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby.

If the remote app should suddenly stop working, try powering off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes. Rhapsody audio can be streamed to the AVR (w/monthly subscription) using either the or the. In addition to the on board SiriusXM capability, you can also stream SiriusXM Internet Radio (w/monthly subscription) via either the or the. Spotify mobile audio can be streamed to the AVR (w/monthly subscription) using either an iOS or Android Spotify Connect app. Best Buy is Denon's largest customer so you can generally find the full line of Denon AVRs at their stores, although specific models will be limited depending on whether there is a Magnolia/Design Center in the store or not. Best Buy stores with no Magnolia/Design Center will generally only sell the lower level models (ie.

'S' series) while those with a Magnolia/Design Center will sell the 'X' series models. Do you have Best Buy gift cards but would prefer to buy at one of the on line authorized resellers that offer a discount? There are several web sites that will buy your gift cards at roughly 90% of face value including. Although you will generally always pay full MSRP when purchasing the current year models at a Best Buy/Magnolia with a 10% discount for open box/demo units, the benefit of purchasing here is there is no restocking fee if returned within 15 days (longer if Rewards Member), regardless of whether it's defective or not, whereas the on-line authorized resellers that provide a discount will normally charge a 15-20% restocking fee plus require you to pay return shipping. Also note that Best Buy has some great deals when clearing out previous year's models so be sure to visit the store before considering a current year's model.

AVScience (877-823-4452) is an authorized Denon dealer, but is listed on Denon's store front authorized dealer webpage (as opposed to the on line dealer webpage). In order for the Denon warranty to be valid, the AVR must be purchased from an authorized dealer, either. Although Amazon is an authorized reseller, that is only if they are the 'seller' so check where it says 'Ships from and sold by XXXX' to ensure the XXXX company is either Amazon or another Denon authorized reseller. Unless they are listed on Denon's website as an authorized reseller, the warranty may not be valid (ie. Some vendors are not listed on the website but purchase from authorized resellers and therefore the warranty is still valid so call Denon if in doubt). If purchasing from an unauthorized reseller, you may want to purchase a 3rd party 'Date of Purchase' warranty which is often times offered by the unauthorized vendors. In some cases the reseller will offer their own in house warranty.

Warranty period (when purchased from authorized reseller) • New or demo or 'open box': 2013 'E' Series and 2014 'S' Series - 2 years; 'X' series - 3 years • Refurbished (any model) – 1 year (note that Amazon Warehouse deals of 'used' models is not considered an authorized dealer, so Denon will not honor the warranty) Notes: (a) Denon has been known to extend the warranty period up to 45 days beyond normal expiration, so check with Denon first. (b) If your unit requires service and the service center cannot repair/return it within 30 days, the repair facility 'should' offer a refurbished unit if available.

If you accept the refurbished unit, rather than wait, your warranty on the refurbished unit would be the time remaining from the original new unit purchase. (c) Buying refurbished units can be a good way to save some money, although receiving a defective 'refurbished' unit is not uncommon. There's also no guarantee that the refurbished unit will have any updated firmware installed. In some cases you can get a brand new, fully warrantied unit from one of the authorized resellers (eg. AV Science) for a price comparable to the refurbished unit when taking into account the cost to purchase an extended warranty for the refurbished unit.

(d) 'Open box' deals from an authorized dealer will generally come with a full mfr's warranty (although note that Amazon Warehouse deals not warrantied by Denon at all). In general these can be great deals as often times the previous buyer simply didn't understand how to set up the AVR (and obviously didn't know about AVS forum) and so there's often nothing wrong with the AVR. Check to make sure you have all the included accessories, although if the mic is missing, you can generally buy one off of eBay (ACM1HB - US distributors only) or from Denon directly for about $25. (e) Some credit card issuers will add an additional year to the mfr's warranty (new or refurbished), so before you give up on your old AVR, or consider adding to the Denon warranty with a 3rd party warranty (eg. SquareTrade), if you purchased with a credit card, check to see if they offer a free Extended Warranty benefit. When connecting a trigger jack to an external device that also has a trigger jack, use a 1/8' to 1/8' Mono cable like one to connect the AVR to the device you want to trigger (eg.

External amp, projection screen, lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be replicated using a (although note this particular model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the X3200W (1 trigger) or X4200W/X6200W (2 triggers). If you are using an external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva), consider using this from Emotiva along with the smart power strip. An IR extender/repeater kit can be used to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the market which will include a powered 'blaster' and a receiver, although not all may work with your model so before buying, ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model.

The powered 'blaster' will have either a single or multiple wired emitters connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model. The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure to read the fine print before buying one of these kits. On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual). The 'X' series models include a Remote Control IR IN jack which can provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on the front panel display.

If you have a X model and would prefer to use the Remote Control IN jack, there are kits that use a 3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK, you can simply replace the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google 'IR extender kit' or 'IR repeater kit' and ensure you read the fine print to get a model that is appropriate for your particular requirements. Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.

Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets; however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip like one or one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer. Although the X4200W and X6200W are the only models with a Phono input, you can connect a turntable to any model using a phono pre-amp similar to one (if one is not built in to the turntable). Simply connect the pre-amp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR. To add DSX (height/wide) speakers you will need a minimum of a 5.0 setup (FL/C/FR/SL/SR). All models can run with a minimum of 2 speakers up to 5 (or 11) depending on the model.

Audyssey will work just as well with 2 speakers as it will with up to and including 11 speakers. When considering speakers, the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is to budget at least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR ->$1000+ 5.1 speaker setup), the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models (or your budget is.

If you don't have a digital coax cable handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the 'yellow' composite video cable as a suitable substitute. With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered 'side' surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled 'Surround' and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. To the 'sides' of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or 'rear' surrounds, they should be connected to the 'Surr Back/Amp Assign' speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website for more information.

Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the 'side' SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup. If you want to connect Front Heights or Front B speakers, you would also connect these speakers to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts as well (except with the X4000/X4100W) and set the AMP ASSIGN setting accordingly. When using this type of speaker (eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from the AVR sub preout to a 'Y' splitter and then to each sub. After running Audyssey Setup, you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL (regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends) as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference. Note with XT32, there are an equivalent number of speaker and sub control points, so without a dedicated sub in the setup, you can go either way with either a LARGE or SMALL setting.

If the Airplay icon is no longer displayed, try one or more of the following steps to resolve the issue: • Set the AVR to Standby and unplug it for 10 minutes. Then plug back in and turn on again. You may need to do this several times. • If using an iPhone or HTPC, try cycling it OFF/ON/OFF/ON while it's connected to the network. • Close/Open iTunes a few times.

• Power cycle the router, wireless bridge, or Powerline adapters OFF/ON/OFF/ON. • If your router has a 'multicast' option, try setting it to YES. • Cycle DHCP OFF/ON/OFF/ON. • Assign the AVR with a static IP address of its own. Turn off DHCP and select an IP address out of the normal range (1-100, eg. 101 ) and then leave the subnet address that's there.

Give it a few minutes after you type it in and you should see the icon pop up on your device. • If using a Verizon Actiontec router. On the router, go to the Advanced tab (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable 'IGMP Proxy' which should resolve the issue. On newer Actiontec routers, if you don't see the IGMP setting, but do see a 'Routing' setting, then select Routing/Routing Protocols/IGMP and disable 'IGMP Proxy' there. Another setting which has been shown to work is to enable the setting just above the setting on the main Advanced menu.

The issue here generally only presents when the AVR is wired directly to the Actiontec router and the iDevice is connected wirelessly. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network. • Regardless of the type router being used, if there is a 'Disable IGMP Proxy' setting that is checked, try unchecking it and see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise, try toggling the 'IGMP Proxy' setting ON/OFF/ON. This issue may be a result of not turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR (as opposed to just changing inputs). When you are finished with the Airplay audio, press/hold the remote ENTER button. Another solution is to uncheck the Airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad (putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake).

This issue has also known to present when changing the 'Video - Audio Display - Audio' from the factory default of '30s' to 'Always', so change it back to '30s'. This may indicate a defective HDMI board. If you have Network Standby/IP Control set to ON, try setting it to OFF as this has resolved the issue for some owners. The final option would be to reset the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual and if still no joy, then give Denon a call to have it repaired. A good rule of thumb is to not raise the master volume above 0db (relative) or 82 (absolute) as it may result in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the 'Volume Limit' setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down at volumes lower than 0db (eg.

-10db) then it is most likely the result of a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem. This occurs because you have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control on the AVR set to ON. The 2014 and 2015 models have a new feature called 'TV Audio Switching' (SETUP - VIDEO - HDMI Setup - TV Audio Switching) which factory defaults to ON.

Set this to OFF to resolve this issue. Try doing the following: Go to 'control panel'.' My computer'.

'my network places'.' Show icons for networked upnp devices.' If using a Verizon Actiontec router. On the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an Ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network. Adjust the Dynamic EQ 'Reference Offset' setting from 0 to 10db.

You can also try increasing the center channel volume by adjusting the Center Dialogue setting. Setting Dynamic Volume to ON(Evening/Medium) will also help to improve lower level dialogue. And lastly, another option is to use the 'Multi CH Stereo' mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing it closer to your main listening position. This error occurs with the networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes.

Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly. You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth. If you are using an Apple device, make sure that 'Home Sharing' is turned ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS).

If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode. If the SSID of your router contains a 'space', rename the router without the space. This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with 'High Speed' (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an issue with the AVR's HDMI board.

Sometimes when a TV station indicates the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use a simulation mode (eg.

DD PLII or Dolby Surround) to simulate 5.1 audio. Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0. Handshake issues will most often present as 'audio dropouts' or sometimes video display issues. Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. Powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). For a more detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure. • HDMI HDCP reset • With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.

• Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices. • Wait 10-15 minutes.

• Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices. • Power on the devices in this order. TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last. Bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence). If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV.

Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital 'orange' output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a 'yellow' composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. Right next to the optical jack).

Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg.

News, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.

• Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV (or better yet add either an or ). • Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4' above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust the heated air out the back of the cabinet • HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another • With the (S910W/X2200W) and higher models, if you are having a video issue, try setting the 'Resolution' setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than using the 'Auto' setting. • Try inserting the between the AVR and the TV/PJ. HTPC connections can be 'iffy' at best. If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR, ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack) as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather than the default resolution of the HTPC's display.

If using a 6' HDMI cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to post and post both of which discuss an EDID Override procedure. If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using. If you are having problems playing.flac files, try using. Sometimes connecting a between the HTPC and the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues. The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues.

If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma, and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny, check out post for several solutions. NVIDIA video card owners: Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel.

For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO). If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of 'sleep' mode, then refer to this or this for more info to resolve the issue. Another option is to set the “Video Mode' setting to either 'MOVIE' or 'GAME' vice 'AUTO.' Other than the possibility of an HDMI handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input (previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily mean it will work when connected to the AVR.

When in doubt, try another HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV. If there is no audio coming from a single speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works. If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location. Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery (+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker, then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel.

Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post to see if that resolves the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your local Denon authorized repair facility. If you suddenly find no video being displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the PURE button on the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT which turns off the front panel display. Also check to make sure all your cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as kids, cats, and cleaning folks have a habit of getting to the back panels and can accidently loosen the connection. If you are running an HDMI cable from the AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak.

Test this by using a shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20' without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice 50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells. If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several models offered. For those of you using HDMI-->CAT 5/6 converters, and having video display issues, you may want to try using this.

On the PS3 or Blu Ray player, set the 'Deep Color Output' setting to OFF. Ensure the game machine is set to a standard TV resolution otherwise the AVR won't recognize the signal. Additionally, on the xBox, try turning off “auto-detect display settings” and forcing the display settings to match the TV.

When you make individual speaker/sub volume changes using Manual Setup - Test Tones, the changes are global and will apply to all source inputs. If you want to make source specific changes, use the OPTION - Channel Level Adjust. If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip.

You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a 'yellow' composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub.

If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running Audyssey Setup. You change the surround mode for SD channels from stereo to DD PLII - Cinema but it changes back to stereo the next time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the QS button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise, the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.

If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that is not listed in post of this thread, and for which you cannot get a resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread, (b) unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device, (d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible), (e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model), (f) resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual, or (g) posting the issue in this thread, then call Denon CSR at 800-497-8921 and report the issue. If you have not reported it to Denon yourself personally, don't assume that Denon is aware of the issue. If the CSR response is 'I've never heard of your issue before,' ask the CSR if they can test it out on one of their units there and call you back. If they don't comply, go to Denon's website, review their FAQ and if still no resolution, then register, and submit your issue with the AVR as well as the response provided by the Denon CSR via the 'Ask A Question' tab. Regardless of how you submit your question, if you receive a response from Denon that resolves your issue, please post Denon's response here in the thread so others might learn from it as well. Setting Audyssey Dynamic Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue, otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and optical from the box to the AVR.

If you see white sparkles (ie. Snow) displayed on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however, try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, AVR, source device and see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can find inexpensive High Speed (1080p) or Standard (720p/1080i) replacement cables at forum sponsor If it's happening with your Blu Ray player only, try setting Deep Color Output to OFF. Some LG BDP's output in Deep Color and don't have a setting to turn it OFF. If you are having issues with it, you may want to consider changing to another brand of BDP.

The AVR will set any speaker to LARGE if it detects it can handle frequencies Network and Internet -->View Network Computers and Devices -->Denon AVR-XXXX. Change setting from 'Blocked' to 'Allowed.' If you have an extremely large media library which includes artwork with the files and some of the files are not playing on the AVR, try using to strip/hide the artwork from the AVR. First when adding the library to MediaMonkey, you have to go to tools options library and uncheck “scan file directory for artwork”. After the transfer you still have the artwork for every single song embedded in the tag. You can easily remove that by hitting the right button over the picture and after choosing “remove image” also check the option “remove image from all the tracks in the album”. Doing so should then allow you to play the album wirelessly to the AVR.

Removing the artwork can be done with the FREE version, although review the website for the benefits of using the Gold version if additional capabilities are needed. The 'X' models each have Zone 2 pre-outs (the X4200W and X6200W also have Zone 3 pre-outs) which can be used to connect a red/white RCA cable to an external amp if you want to run a 7.1 setup in the main zone plus Zone 2 and/or Zone 3 speakers, otherwise, if you only want to run a 5.1 setup, you can use the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts to power the Zone 2 speakers (7.1 models only). You can generally find used 2CH amps on Craigslist for ~$50 or you can buy or new. You can also use another AVR as well by connecting the RCA cable to one of the 2nd AVR's stereo analog inputs and connecting the Zone 2 speakers to the FL/FR speaker posts on the Zone 2 AVR. Depending on the model, the Zone 2 models (all but S510BT) have up to two ways to pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The 2015 (S710W. S910W) and all 'X' models feature an 'All Zone Stereo' feature that can pass the same stereo HDMI audio playing in the main zone to the Zone 2 Amp Assign speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs (X series only).

Additionally the 2015 (X3200W/X4200W/X6200W) models are able to pass the same or an independent HDMI1-7 (rear panel only) audio source to the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out jack (note that when the same HDMI source is selected for both main and Zone 2, the main zone will be down mixed to the lowest common denominator of the two TVs connected to the monitor outputs even with Zone 2 set to OFF such that if the Zone 2 TV can only process a stereo 2.0 signal, the main zone will be down mixed to stereo as well). The 2015 (X3200W/X4200W/X6200W) are also able to pass an independent HDMI, optical, or coax digital PCM 2.0 signal to the Zone 2 speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs such that another source can be selected in the main zone. When playing a source with both PCM 2.0 and DD/DTS 5.1 audio (eg. Cable/sat box, DVDs, and BDs), and that source is selected in both main and Zone 2, the DD/DTS 5.1 audio will play in the main zone while the PCM 2.0 audio will play to the Zone 2 speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs.

Some devices may require setting the audio to PCM 2.0 (eg. PS3) in order to pass to Zone 2. Otherwise, on the (S710W, S910W, X1200W, X2200W) models, to pass external sources to Zone 2 will require connecting an analog RCA (red/white) cable from the source to the AVR in addition to the HDMI cable for the main zone.

If you have other than the S510BT and want to send the 'same' audio to more than just one zone/room, you can connect a multi zone impedance matching speaker selector (eg. ) to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts.

If adding more than 2 additional rooms; however, you will want to consider an AVR model that has Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. 'X' models only) so that a separate 2CH amp can run the whole house speakers. You would then connect the speaker selector between the speakers and the external amp. For more information on whole house audio setups, review website.

One advantage of having a model with Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. 'X' model), is that you can connect a set of analog wireless headphones (eg. Sennheiser) and listen to music elsewhere in the house while someone is watching a movie or playing a game in the main zone (noting the Zone 2 limitations listed above).

Disclaimer: All information posted above is believed to be accurate. If you find that to not be the case, please PM me with the corrected information to include links which may no longer work. Also if you have any other 3rd party product recommendations please PM with that information as well. Known Issues relating to the 2015 Denon S/X Series models This post will be used to list any known issues or clarifications being discussed in this thread or identified by Denon as well as their resolution (if any).

If you are experiencing any issues, ensure the unit has the latest firmware update installed. The first troubleshooting step if the AVR starts acting abnormally would be a 'soft reset' which is just setting the unit to Standby and unplugging it for 10 or more minutes. Changing Audyssey settings okay: The below listed notes in each of the Owner's manuals often causes confusion and needs some clarification.

O If you change the speaker settings after performing Audyssey Setup, you will no longer be able to select Audyssey MultEQ XT, DynamicEQ, or Dynamic Volume. The above does not apply to changing the LARGE/SMALL/distance/crossover/speaker or sub volume settings, rather only applies if you add additional speakers that have not previously been EQ'd by Audyssey.

After running Audyssey, make any sub volume changes using the AVR rather than the gain/volume knob on the sub itself. Audyssey Bronze/Silver/Gold/Platinum: If the same Audyssey version is listed for multiple models, it is the same version in all respects regardless of the marketing package name used to identify it. Rather, the use of the marketing terms (Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum) identify the additional Audyssey features provided.

Note also that Audyssey Pro is a separate purchase ($550 kit, $150 license = $700) used on a PC to further calibrate/EQ the speakers/sub using the AVR's on board version of Audyssey.